Archive for March 2006

Rivieria Maya30 Mar 2006 05:29 pm
Posted By: John & Libby

Our cat, Mindy, has become quite the watchcat here in Mexico. She often sits on a plastic chair on our balcony patrolling the neighborhood. We leave the balcony door open when we’re home so that she can come and go as she pleases.

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A couple of weeks ago, we heard a growl coming from our balcony area. Strange, Mindy doesn’t growl. We looked over to find that a small black cat had made its way into our apartment. Mindy started hissing and chased her off in a flash. To get to our apartment, the black cat had to squeeze through our building’s gate, walk up the stairs to the 2nd floor, jump over our balcony wall and then saunter in through our balcony door. We were pretty sure that the cat was an outdoor cat recently adopted by our friends, Steve & Sara, who live across the way. They confirmed that this cat does, in fact, like to growl.

A few days ago, Mindy started meowing and staring intently at the wall. She then started jumping at the wall desparately trying to get at something out of her reach. So, we went to take a look. A cockroach! Make that a flying cockroach! Although Libby is usually on bug duty, this was a little too much for her. Those long antennae are freaky! John machoed up and took care of the offending bug. Since we leave our balcony door open, we do occasionally get some big bugs like moths, but this was our first cockroach. Mindy is always helpful enough to point them out to us.

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Good girl, Mindy!

Rivieria Maya27 Mar 2006 12:52 am
Posted By: John & Libby

In our continuing quest to make the most of our remaining time here in Mexico, we did the unimaginable — an ultra-touristy bus tour to Chichén Itzá. How did independent travelers such as ourselves end up on a tour with forty tourists from the U.S., Canada, Spain and Argentina? Well, here’s the story.

Every spring and autumn equinox, thousands of people flock to Chichén Itzá to view the “serpent” slithering down the Pyramid of Kukulkán. There is no real serpent, of course. At certain times of day, the sun casts shadows on the pyramid making it look like a serpent body is crawling down the pyramid meeting an actual statue of a serpent’s head at the bottom. At least that’s what people say it looks like.

Libby wanted to see it even though we had already visited Chichén Itzá with our friends, Kevin & Lynette. John thought it sounded lame. Libby found a webcast of the slithering serpent from last year, hoping to entice John with it. Turned out the cloud cover made the serpent a bit shy last year. Libby was having trouble making her case.

Enter our friend Antonio who works for a local travel company. He is going on a free tour to Chichén Itzá the next day and there are 2 more seats available. The tour includes round trip transportation, morning at a cenote, afternoon at Chichén to view the elusive serpent, breakfast, lunch and all the soda and beer we can drink. Free beer? Now you’re talking! John’s in.

A day trip to Chichén Itzá from Playa means an early morning, so we boarded a huge bus about 7:45am. Yikes! After a breakfast of coffee, orange juice and baked goods (Try not to spill that coffee on the speed bumps!), we arrived at our first stop – Ikkil Cenote, just 3 kilometers east of Chichén Itzá. With 3 tour buses arriving at the same time, the place was packed. The water level of this cenote is about 80 feet below the surface, but a very easy walk down some stairs takes you to water level. The cenote was nice and some additional stairs led to a jumping platform. John made the 20 foot jump twice without hesitation, Antonio made the jump once after some consideration, and Libby chickened out and made a 10 foot jump instead.

Next on the agenda was an assembly-line style meal at some restaurant created solely to feed tourists on big tour buses. Nothing much to speak of, but hey, it was free! We finally moved on to Chichén Itzá, where we embarked on a Mayan guided tour. When we visited Chichén before, we did not hire a guide, but relied on a guidebook. Although we didn’t see as much on this trip, it was interesting to get the perspective of a Mayan. She purports that many of the stories we hear and read about the Mayans were created by the Christian Spaniards in order to put the Mayan pagans in a bad light – mainly stories about human sacrifices. (If you’ve read DaVinci Code, you’ll believe it.)

After the tour was over, it was time to nab a primo spot for the viewing of the serpent. Around 4pm, we started seeing the beginnings of the serpent. Over the next hour, the shadows very slowly changed until we finally saw the serpent in full effect. It’s a good thing we had seen pictures of it on the internet. Otherwise, we would have thought we had missed it. Okay, maybe John was right. A bit lame.

The Serpent
Click for larger view

More interesting was the show put on by our fellow spectators. We were there the day after the official spring equinox, when the serpent is just as slithery, but the crowds are thinner. Still, there were plenty of people, most of them sitting. But some of those in the “first row” felt compelled to stand through much of the hour. Watching the sitters taunting the picture snapping/video-taping standers was quite amusing. Every time a stander was finally convinced to sit, there was applause. Hey, there was nothing else to do!

In all seriousness, although the visual effect of the slithering serpent did not wow these (perhaps jaded) travellers, the accuracy with which the Mayans produced such a precise effect on a precise date really amazed us. And it still works over a thousand years later. Those Mayans must have aced the math section of their ACTs!

And this concludes our tour.

Thanks so much to Antonio for getting us into that tour! ¡Que tipazo!

View our New Chichén Itzá pictures

Rivieria Maya21 Mar 2006 09:22 pm
Posted By: John & Libby

So, it finally hit us. We only have 3 months left of our “vacation” in Playa del Carmen. What adventures have we had lately? We realized that we’ve been a little too lazy, just lounging around and soaking in the sun. There is still so much to see, we better get moving…

Two years ago, our friends Jeannie and Winthrop spent their honeymoon in a small town in Mexico called Punta Allen. They told us that to get there they were flying into Cancun, renting a jeep, driving a few hours south, possibly on some very rough roads, and staying in a town that only had electricity for a few hours a day. At that time, we thought they were crazy. Last Friday, we thought, “Game on!”

Punta Allen is located about 75 miles south of Playa del Carmen. To get there, you drive through Tulum and continue heading south. On our first trip to Tulum, the paved road was only a few miles long. It has since been extended another 10 miles or so. However, that left about 25 miles of pot-holes and sand traps for us to endure. We felt the Civic was up for the challenge.

map_to_punta_allen.jpg Full map is here.

We got an early start on the day, leaving PDC (1) around 11:00am. (We told you we’re lazy!) By noon, we were past Tulum (2) and had reached the end of the road. Shortly thereafter, we entered the Sian Ka’an biosphere (3), Mexico’s most comprehensively naturally protected environment (so says the guidebook). Another guidebook fact : Sian Ka’an is Yucatek for “Where Heaven is Born”.

Against our better judgement, we stopped at a place declaring itself a “Tourist Center and Museum”. To our surprise, they actually did have about 10 signs describing some trees, as well as the obligatory souvenir shop and restaurant. The highlight of the center was a lookout tower, built like a makeshift tree house, on top of a single tree trunk. Although the spiral steps that circled the tower were creaking and the tower was swaying wildly, we managed to make it to the top for an incredible 360 degree view of the peninsula.

Another 45 minutes into our trip, we arrived at Xamach Dos for lunch (4). Besides the staff, Gary and Jose, there was no one else around. Gary asked us if we needed a drink and brought us some cold beers. The food options for the day were shrimp, lobster and barracuda. We both decided to try the barracuda. (By the way, John hates seafood.) While we waited for our lunch to be prepared, we had some quiet time to just enjoy the magnificent scenery (pics in the Punta Allen gallery below). The food was awesome. Gary told us we were still 12 miles from Punta Allen and the roads got a lot worse. We couldn’t stop now.

Close to an hour later and still 4 miles out, the road narrowed to one lane that went over a very sandy area (5). The Civic handled the first few sand pits like a champ. However, the sand dunes in the road gradually got higher and higher, to the point where we were plowing the bottom of the car directly through the sand. Not knowing how much longer the sand dunes lasted, we decided to retreat. Performing a 3 point turn on a one lane beach road should be a skill taught in Driver’s Education! Somehow, we managed to turn the car around and head back home. We look forward to trying the trip again. Next time we’ll be in a rental jeep. Bummer.

We’ve also posted many new galleries for your viewing pleasure:
Tulum
Ek Balam
Chichén Itzá
Valladolid
Family & Friends
Punta Allen - The Road To Nowhere

Rivieria Maya14 Mar 2006 06:44 pm
Posted By: John & Libby

You know you’re lazy when … wait, didn’t we do that one already … oh well, here we go again … You know you’re lazy when you let other people write a blog entry for you.

We recently had the pleasure of a visit from four of John’s relatives. Their previous Mexico travel experiences had been limited — cruise ship stops in Cozumel, one person’s day trip to Tijuana and another’s resort vacation in Puerto Vallarta. Their questions and curiosity about Mexico and the way we live here reminded us of how it felt to be Mexico newbies. Things that are as normal as white bread to us now, were new, exotic and maybe a bit scary to our visitors. So, this blog entry is written from the perspective of one those visitors — John’s cousin Jenni, a professional writer with a community newspaper in suburban Chicago.


Writer’s note: This Mexican adventure was documented by an intoxicated journalist. While the quotes are accurate, the context may not be.

We came (from the windy city to an even windier beach), we saw (Chihuahuas and bats), and we conquered (fears of water, claustrophobia and authentic cuisine, including cactus).

This is the Mexican Adventure of Johnny’s Aunt Donna, cousins Pete and Jenni, and Kyle, Jenni’s husband.

The four arrived in Playa Del Carmen last Wednesday. After a long morning of traveling the crew was excited to see Johnny’s familiar face at the airport. Donna said she hoped he wasn’t missing any work to meet them.

“Work, what’s that?” asked Johnny. “Oh, that’s what the people with income do.”

The group met up with Libby and went out for the gringos’ first Mexican meal.

“This is better than the octopus tacos,” Libby said.

Johnny offered some advice about dining in Mexico: “Just slam it and order another beer.”

Pete obliged, “Uno mas.”

“Your Spanish is better when you’re drunk,” Libby said.

Before Pete indulged in his newfound legal drinking status (his 18th birthday was the week prior), Donna gave him a warning.

“If you puke, you better do it in the pool, our toilet isn’t working,” she said. “It’s such crap, this no toilet paper in the toilet thing.”

In the following days, the group traveled via ferry to Cozumel, witnessed the devastation of Hurricane Wilma, snorkeled, bartered and barked, drank in a cave and climbed the tallest Mayan ruin in the Yucatan Peninsula.

But it was the group’s last day that kept them busiest.

“Do you want a piggy back ride?” Pete asked. “Everyone can jump on, I have strong calves.”

Instead they opted for a horseback ride along the beach.

“The whole time I was behind the cowboy and he was holding the rope,” Donna said.

Afterwards, Donna went on her own for some souvenir shopping.

“I’m going to buy Viagra for Uncle Ken – Libby said you can get some without a script.”

Johnny, Libby, Pete, Jenni and Kyle went onto Hidden Worlds for cenote snorkeling.

“Oh, we’re all going to die today,” Kyle said when he saw the jungle trucks, or glorified open motor tractors, that would take them to the underground cave.

Snorkeling in cenotes, dodging underwater stalagmites, was the highlight of everyone’s trip. The group was glad they had their own guide, as some of the tourists bothered Johnny.

“They were wearing matching shirts – I didn’t want to talk to them,” he said.

After their siesta, the group gathered for their last night out together.

“Hey everybody, it’s 5:28 (see 5th Avenue and 28th Street),” Pete said as they walked from restaurant to restaurant looking for the perfect off-the-beaten path Italian diner.

After two bottles of wine, a four-course dinner, multiple rounds of Corona and tequila shots, drunken pictures were abound.

“Who’s going to sit on his stick?” Jenni asked prior to posing.

No night out in Playa Del Carmen is complete without a stop for Hawaiian pizza at Pizza Pazza.

“They are going to miss us because we’re so much freakin’ fun,” Donna said.


Editor’s Notes:

1 We’re not so sure about the accuracy of the quotes collected by this intoxicated journalist. But the editors were most likely also intoxicated at the time the quotes were made, so we’ll probably never know for sure.

2 Jenni, how could you have forgotten the most oft said quote of the trip: “Is it safe?”

3 Anyone other than a few, select relatives is absolutely forbidden to refer to John as Johnny.

4 After several months of living and drinking in a foreign country, we believe we have scientific proof that speaking a foreign language is much easier and more accurate when drunk.

5 “no toilet paper in the toilet thing” - Many restaurants, bars and (apparently) hotels in the original section of Playa del Carmen ask that you not flush toilet paper as it will clog their systems. In some of the newer sections of town and in more upscale hotels, this is not an issue. In case you’re curious, we’ve been flushing toilet paper in our apartment for over 3 months without a problem.

6 Despite what our guest writer may have unintentionally communicated, Cozumel is not exactly devastated. It is true that not all of the trees have regained their foliage, reefs close to shore have been covered in sand, and Sol Cabañas, the hotel at which Jenni and Kyle were married last January, was damaged and has not reopened. However, the majority of hotels are back open and looking better than before, the already man-made beaches have been restocked and are bigger than before, beach clubs have been rebuilt and despite sand-covered coral, fish still abound. The snorkeling at Dzul Ha was great on our trip.

7 The tallest Mayan pyramid in the Yucatan peninsula is at Coba.

8 Pizza Pazza rules!

Rivieria Maya07 Mar 2006 10:27 pm
Posted By: John & Libby

You know you’re lazy when …

  • You’re living a life of leisure in Mexico, but you can’t be bothered to rub everyone’s faces in it by updating your blog every once in a while.
  • Going to the beach sounds like a hassle.
  • You don’t feel like cooking or going out to eat, but ordering delivery means you have to talk to someone in Spanish.
  • You complain about the 2-3 times a month that you need to set an alarm clock to wake you up.
  • You sit in the shade so you don’t have to put sunscreen on.
  • You don’t go scuba diving, because all that equipment is just so heavy.
  • Your legs get sore from walking to the store and back.
  • You don’t feel like picking up the laundry that you’re paying someone else to wash, dry and fold for you.
  • You actually do some blog-worthy things, but you’re too lazy to write about them. So, you write this lousy blog entry about being lazy.